In 1991, my husband and I had the opportunity to go to Ireland, he was there on business and I was able to tag along. I kept a journal of the trip. Last week, I shared the beginning of the journey. Here is the rest:
Tuesday, March 19, 1991
The Good Guy got up and called Microsoft, Ireland to report that he was here. He left at 9:30 and I headed out to find a bank. I exchanged $95US for 57.05 Irish pounds at the Bank of Ireland. I came back to the hotel room and watched the maid clean and then headed across the green to the Genealogical office/Heraldic Museum and saw the crests and artifacts of old clans. The man there said I had to make an appointment for 10 pounds to talk to a researcher. I guess I need to go to the National Library (next door) to do some of my own research tomorrow.
I stopped at a sandwich store on the way back and got a pint of milk, a chicken sandwich, 2 golden apples and a package of cup-a-soup for 2.35pounds. That was a much better deal than a pub or Cafe Stephen at the hotel...and the food was delicious (of course, by then I was starving). The Good Guy will be hungry - I hope the people at work will help him find a place to eat.
He came "home" at 3:30. He had stopped at a market and gotten 2 apples and 2 oranges, 1 can of soup, 1 can of beans, 1 loaf of bread, 2 carrots and 3kg of potatoes. We went to a walking street (Grafton St.) and bought another loaf of bread for 65pence. We went to a hardware store and bought a potato peeler. That store was amazing - such clutter!! We stopped and got a pound of margarine for 48p, too. By this time, it was pouring rain. I looked like a drowned rat. We went home and ate. By 8:30 we couldn't keep our eyes open anymore.
Wed., Mar 20
We slept in! I don't know how business travellers manage jet lag. I am doing very poorly adjusting. We got up and I made Texas toast with milk for us to drink. The Good Guy left at 9:30 again.
I went to the Library at 10:30 and it wasn't open! I had misread the times. Tomorrow it opens at 10am. So, I went to the National Museum and saw the artifacts from the Vikings, Dublin and a section on New Zealanders. I didn't go up to the 2nd floor. I thought I'd bring the Good Guy back to see it sometime.
After that, I went to Grafton St again and browsed through some shops. I bought some coursemeal bread for 74p. I almost got a scone, too, but decided against it. I bought another sandwich for 1.20pounds. When the Good Guy gets home, hopefully, we will go to a market.
I have failed to mention that we are staying in Stephen's Hall, which has one of those famous Georgian doors. We are situated kitty-corner from St. Stephen's Green, a 4 acre park that is simply beautiful.
Thurs, Mar 21
The Good Guy and I went to a mall this morning to get a Dublin street map. He is sick of getting lost 2-4 times each way to work. I went to the National Library afterwards. I found the Journal of Cork Historical and Archeological Society. I read an article called "The Origins of the ____ Family in Country Cork." It convinced me that I have to go to Cork and then to a certain town to see where my ancesters lived.
I next went to the Museum of Natural History. It was 4 floors of stuffed dead animals. On the 2nd floor, I got the heebee jeebees amongst those huge animals. Water buffalo heads were inches above my own. Rhinos were posed to attack. It was fascinating, though.
Then, I went to the National Gallery of Art. It wasn't as wonderful as I'd hoped it would be. There were paintings and busts from Italy (1500-1600) and Irish painters (1700-present). There was a restaurant as well, but that was it.
I finished my day back in the mall. I went into a store like a Target. The linen tablecloths were 35 pounds and lower. I can get a 72" white one for 14 pounds. Hopefully, Cork will be cheaper. Everything here is so expensive. Sweaters are 30-60 pounds, Levis are 20 pounds and food is expensive, too.
Friday, March 22
At 10am, I went back to the National Library. I looked through tons of books and found the crests of many of our families. I had some pages copied and then I looked for the RC parish records from that town in Cork and started looking for my family....and I found them!!! I found the baptismal records for my great-great-great grandfather and all of his brothers and sisters. And then I found his parents' marriage record!!! The records only went back to 1817, so I couldn't find their baptism records. As it is, I am afraid the records don't help much in putting generations together. Now we need to go south.
I got to the hotel at 2:40 and had to run down the street to the bank to exchange more money (it closes at 3) Tomorrow, we are going to Galway for sweaters. Galway is where one of my mother's great-great grandfather's came from. I haven't had much luck finding anything on that line, but it will be fun to see the area.
Saturday, March 23
The alarm went off at 4:35, but I couldn't make myself get up until 5:15. We were on the road by 6. It was an easy drive over. No one, apparently, gets up that early on Saturday mornings. The countryside was beautiful. We passed many manor houses and tons of sheep. The lambs had been born just a few weeks ago. They were so cute!
In Athlone, we crossed the River Shannon and took pictures of an old castle and library. We got to Galway at 9am. The crystal store was just opening. We went in but things were just too expensive. We went into the city center tourist information office to get directions to the various sweater shops and the Royal Tara china factory. We went to the china factory first. We got The Good Guy's sister a clock - it's beautiful. I sure wish I had lots of money. I'd have gotten my mom and myself some shamrock china.
We went on a wild goose chase next and ended up on Galway Bay. We could see the three Aran Islands in the distance. It was breath taking. We were in Spiddal, another town and bought a sweater at a shop there. Then we returned to Galway and bought 7 more sweaters. It wiped us out for money until we can get to a bank again.
We ate lunch at Supermacs, a hamburger/take away (not take out) joint. We bought way more food than we could eat: 4 hamburgers, 4 fries and a large Club Orange fizzy. We had to get our daily Cadbury candy bars, too. We are totally addicted to British chocolate.
The road back to Dublin was quick. We got really, really lost and short tempered as we tried to find the hotel again.
Sunday, Mar. 24.
We attended a local church and then basically stayed home all day.
Monday, March 25
I am afraid I have run out of things to do. At least I have covered the walking radius around the hotel. I went to the Library again and had the rest of a family article copied. I looked for the Galway family and had no luck. At noon I came home (bought milk on the way) and washed some clothes in the sink. I made my own sandwich for lunch and saved a pound.
I think I need to address my new chocolate addiction. I absolutely love the Dairy Bars. The Good Guy loves every variety he has tried. I cannot believe the difference between a Cadbury bar in the States and one here. It's like the difference between wax and cream.
The weather has been beautiful for the last few days. No Rain! Everyone has been out in the Green lying on the ground.
Tuesday, March 26
I left the hotel at 9:30 and went to Grafton Street again via St. Stephen's Green. That park is so much fun. There is a giant jungle gym in one section for kids. There are two fountains with cattails painted where the water comes out. There is a stream in which ducks, geese and swans swim. This morning a rooster of all things was crowing there. There is a big statue of three people at the Leeson entrance, but I haven't figured out who they are and what their significance is.
At Grafton, I bought 20 postcards and a finemeal pan (bread) at the bakery. I went into the mall at the end and bought an Irish cookbook and apron for my mom.
We went out for fried chicken last night. We were going to go to an Irish food place, but it ended up being too cold to walk that far and we knew we'd get lost if we drove. We will try again later in the week.
I need to describe the National Library building. You walk into a great circular hall. A man checks your ticket to let you in and then another man puts your bags and coats into a locker and hands you a key. Next you climb up a great stone circular staircase to the Reading Room. In this round room are tables with banker's lamps. The walls are lined with books. The ceiling goes way up to sky windows and a wonderful dome. There are cupids looking down at the patrons. If you want to look at something that is not on the shelves, you fill out a slip with your table number on it and the library aide brings it to you.
Today is overcast. It hasn't rained yet, but I think it will soon. I suppose if I weren't from Seattle, I would think it dreary. It is just like home.
The Good Guy is making a presentation today at work. He has been amazed at the difference between Microsoft US and Microsoft Ireland.
Wed, Mar 27
I went for a long walk today. I walked around Stephen's Green, through the streets around Grafton Street and then by Trinity College. I stopped off in a few book stores and found myself a little cookbook for 60p. I went back to the National History Museaum again and saw the top two floors this time. It seemed more interesting. Maybe it's because I am over the jet lag. The animals there are up to 130 years old. They just don't shoot and stuff animals like they used to.
Thurs, Mar 28
I went to the National Library one last time today. I copied a long list of our family names. Someday we may know how everyone fits together. I spent a few hours staring at microfilm.
We went to the supermarket and bought lamb chops, milk, eggs, cereal, 7 candy bars and 3 boxes of biscuits. We had potatoes and lamb chops for dinner. The potatoes here seem extra starchy. I wonder if they grow a different variety in Ireland?
Tomorrow is Good Friday, which means it's only a half day of work for the Good Guy. We are planning on site seeing when he gets home.
Friday, Mar 29
Today is known as Black Fast Day here. No one is supposed to participate in any frivolities. I went to the Green for a stroll. The weather is sunny and warm. I watched the ducks and pigeons for a while. It's spring, but the males aren't having any apparent luck with their wooing. It was funny to watch them try to attract the females.
The daffodils are in full bloom everywhere. As you drive down the roads, you find them in the middle of fields, randomly blooming with the sheep. It's hard to imagine them being planted there. In the Green, however, they are planted in specific places. The tulips are budded and anxious to open, too. Hopefully next week they will open before we go. I am already missing the ones at home. It's a peaceful day. Not many people have to work, so everyone seems to be taking it easy. I talked to one of the desk clerks and he suggested we go to Cork today to avoid the traffic. This weekend may end up really boring if everything is closed for the holiday.
Saturday, March 30
We ended up taking a really long walk after work yesterday. We woke up late this morning and hurried through getting ready. By 6:30am we were on our way south. First we drove down to the coast of Wexford. It took us 2 1/2 hours. We went grocery shopping at a place called "Crazy Prices" There seems to be no order to the stores here. Things are shoved everywhere. The aisles are not even parallel! We bought bread, milk, butter, apples and of course chocolate.
We went to the tourist info office and got directions to Johnstown Castle. We went there next and saw the beautiful house. It was closed, but we took some pictures.
We drove through Waterford and saw the world headquarters of the famous crystal company. We crossed a few bridges and saw wonderful scenery. It was terribly foggy in the distances, so some of our photos will be hazy. We arrived in Cork at 1pm. The streets were crowded. Easter weekend is a big one here. We decided to go to my ancestors' town before it got too late. It took us another hour to get there. The old parish church was gone and the cemetery was disasterous. The headstones were little more than crumbles. Father Murphy, the parish priest, was too busy getting ready for Easter to help us (duh! I wish we'd taken that into consideration before we made the trip). We took pictures of the town and then went to a market and got directions to a possible cousin's house. She was very sweet and had pages and pages of family history, but none of it appeared to tie into our line. We left at 5pm and drove back through Cork. We saw the cathedral and then went north through Tipperary to Dublin. We arrived home at 9pm, very tired.
Easter Sunday, March 31
Unbeknownst to us, Ireland went to Daylight Savings last night.
Waiting for us outside our hotel room door was a wonderful Easter egg, compliments of the management. Here in Ireland, instead of baskets of candy, everyone gets a giant egg that is filled with little candies and prizes. It was, of course, divine chocolate. We bought some meat pies at the corner store....ooooh! They were so good!
Monday, April 1
We went first to Limerick today and decided to visit Blarney Castle. It cost 2.5pounds each to get in. We walked up a trail to an impressive building. We looked in the dungeons and tower. People were certainly a lot smaller back when that castle was made. The passageways were very narrow and short. Next, we walked through a garden that had been a Druid's cave. There was a staircase carved into the wall of the cave and another cave that was called a witch's kitchen. We walked around the lower end of the castle and then entered the main part. We walked up a ton of narrow stairs. The rooms were damp and tiny. The floors to the chapel and banquet hall were gone, so the family rooms were open to the sky. We finally reached the top floor after looking everywhere for the Blarney Stone. There it was...on the top. Over 150 feet above ground and on the outside of the castle wall. In order to kiss the stone, you have to lie on your back and extend your body out over the expanse of nothingness and kiss the outside of the stone. Suddenly, I had no need to kiss the stone. In fact, I wondered what made anyone want to!
We left the castle and headed to the Blarney Woolen Mill. It was cheaper than Galway, but we had already made our purchases. We ate lunch in Blarney. I had Irish Stew. We had planned to go to the coast to see the cliffs, but The Good Guy was beat, so we headed back to Dublin.
Tuesday, April 2
After pricing linen all over the country, it turns out that the linen tablecloths at the mall nearby are the cheapest. I bought a 54 X 90 cloth for 14.95 pounds.
The days are winding down. We are ready to go home. Irish television is pretty bad. Between 1970s and 1980s US programs and Gaelic channels, we have been pretty bored at night. We have watched the entire mini series "V." We also watched the Irish/English football championships, dog obedience tests and the news.
Wednesday, April 3
I packed up everything today. It is going to be hard to get to the airport from Euston station with 5 bags. We have bought sweaters, table linens, a clock and some little touristy things. Maybe we should have shipped it by post home....Live and learn.
Thursday, April 4
Tonight the Microsoft people took us out to an Indian restaurant. It was simply delicious! We had course after course of wonderful food. As usual, my favorite was the bread (naan).
Friday, April 5
We checked out today. We drove to a store and stocked up on chocolate. We ate a lunch of fish and chips. We cashed The Good Guy's paycheck at the Bank of Ireland and exchanged it into dollars. I had on a big sweater with a fanny pack underneath and we put the money into that. No one should suspect I am carrying money on me. We drove a little to the north of Dublin and saw another castle and a park.
We turned in our car and at 7pm we took a taxi to the train station. We were in Dun Loaghaire by 8. We boarded the ferry, but forgot to do our VAT's so the Good Guy had to find the customs office really quickly and have our receipts stamped. We need that so we can get a refund on the taxes we paid here.
The weather was very windy, but the ferry crossing was smooth. We watched Fletch Lives and Field of Dreams. We also bought a pizza for dinner. We had the choice of ham & mushrooms, ham & pineapple, or tuna fish for toppings! It was 6pounds for an 8 inch pizza.
Saturday
We arrived in Holyhead at midnight. We got on the train in a nonsmoking car, full of smoking drunk people. We would have moved, but with all of our luggage, we'd have made an awful noise. The train didn't leave for 2 hours and finally arrived in London at 7:30am. I tried to sleep on the train, but was not very successful.
Getting through customs was another adventure. The first man asked us whose luggage we had. Of course it was ours, so we acted surprised that he would ask. That made him all the more suspicious of us. Then we went to get the luggage x-rayed and that darned clock made them think we had a bomb. We had to unpack it and show it to them. They wanted to break it and look inside, but we finally convinced them that it was simply a gift. The Good Guy was then frisked at the metal detector.
We got on the plane at noon. We fell asleep right after lunch. When we arrived in Canada, we went through US customs. They didn't like my estimate of how much everything was worth, so we had to unpack our suitcases one more time. It was quite a hassle and both of us were cross for a while after that. Our plane back to Seattle was bigger than the hopper we'd rode getting to Vancouver. Our ride was late picking us up, but it didn't matter. We were home!